Of all the hours Darbar is open, 4pm is probably the only time when the casual Indian restaurant isn’t busy. At that time on a recent Tuesday, a lone patron sat finishing the remnants of a rice dish while a waiter dismantled the lunch buffet (only $9.95 from 11:30am-4pm) in preparation for the 5pm happy hour. Busboys scampered in and out of the kitchen with heaping platters of delicious-looking chicken while two managers sat at a nearby table and chatted idly away, no doubt enjoying the mid-day lull as they prepared for what would be another long and busy night. When a customer did walk into the restaurant, they sprang into action as if it were their grand opening, offering him a drink at the bar and a quick tour of the establishment. 
 
Darbar’s brick walls and hardwood floors evoke a sophistication that surpasses the usual speed-over-style ethos of its East Midtown peers. The bar -- more reminiscent of a chic downtown club with opaque countertops and glass shelves -- offers a dynamic selection of beers (including Indian favorites Taj Mahal and Flying Horse), top-shelf liquor, and a wine list that could satisfy even the most discerning oenophiles. The main room is a little narrow for comfort during peak hours, but it is merely a precursor to the more spacious yet intimate dining room upstairs, a place couples enjoy romantic, candle-lit dinners beneath the restaurant’s enormous skylight. 
 
The menu is expansive, complete with Indian staples ranging from reshmi kabab and chicken tikka masala to vegetable biryani and tandoori shrimp. Darbar also offers inexpensive lunch boxes to go, which the managers say have been a proven hit with the on-the-go business crowd. And with many items on the menu below $10 (some soups and sides cost $3-$4,) you’re not going to find a much better combination of quality and value in the neighborhood.  -- Corey Moser

152 E. 46th St., 212-681-4500; darbarny.com